This past week and weekend was spent finishing the endeavors began in the last entry. I’d finished the basic bodice and skirt slopers for me, and was still working on the beginnings of my fiance‘s sloper. We’re on a bit of a time crunch since his gallery opening is June 20. This is obviously plenty of time to start and finish a shirt – so why the crunch? He designed and ordered his own fabric from Spoonflower to fit the gallery theme of conspiracy theories – it’s going to look crazy cool! It looks like redacted government documents. I’ll definitely share a photo of it once it arrives. Point is, I wanted the pattern ready to go so I could get to work as soon as the fabric arrived.
I busted through the initial draft process, and ended up with my first round of sloper patterns. I added some seam allowance, and pinned them together to fit them to my model (the boy).
After putting it on my model, there was one major trouble spot. Like I said in the last entry, he and I are not conventionally shaped. He’s got a bit narrower chest than “average” (I’m learning I hate that work in my line of work). There was a lot of excess paper in the chest, especially around the armhole. I pinched the excess in to mark the amount for later. There were a few smaller adjustments, like carving out the armhole and neck, but mostly just the chest measurement.
I took it off the model, unpinned and laid the pieces flat. A little slashing and opening, and I moved the excess around.
I filled in the open slashes in bottom…
…and set to tracing out the slopers. And here they are!
(Oh, yea … at some point I drafted up a sleeve. But how much many more photos of paper does one really need to see?) 🙂
I had an excellent question from someone on my Facebook page. She simply asked “what is a sloper?” Fair enough, since ‘sloper’ is kind of jargony. The difference between a pattern and a sloper is that a sloper has no seam allowance, and serves as a foundation on which you base all garment patterns off of.
With his slopers completed, on to the actual shirt pattern. I’ll fast forward a bit and skip to the good part.
It’s a basic safari style shirt. He opted for no pockets on this though because he felt that with the redacted pattern on the fabric, that it would be too much. I totally agreed, and I didn’t feel like dealing with the headache of trying to line up the lines of text to make the pocket blend with the rest of the shirt.
I will say that there are few things as rewarding as labeling pattern pieces. Basically, I’m a giant 5 year old, and it’s an opportunity to play with different colored markers.
Now it is the waiting game for the fabric order to arrive.
I rounded out my weekend by cutting out my first round of sloper patterns out in muslin so I can fit them. Finding that I really am in need of a plus size mannequin. I haven’t had the time to fit myself, but here’s what it looks like on my tiny dress form.
I’m thinking this is going to be a project that a revisit over the next few months. I eventually want to make myself some dressier button down shirts. A basic fitted shirt, with French cuffs is definitely going to happen. This is a quick sketch of another possible style idea:
None of this has a deadline attached, however, so I’m having to prioritize.
For the next entry (Thursday or Friday?), I’m hoping to either have photos of the finished redaction shirt, or some sketches for my Godzilla gallery show submission. I’m got the Godzilla dress planned out pretty solidly, and I’ve got some ideas for the other kaiju that I’m pretty jazzed about. You can check out my inspiration board on Pinterest. Either way, you can look forward to some grooviness.
Until next time, stay classy San Diego.
Project music: A Perfect Circle’s discography